Apple MacBook Air Teardown (13-inch 2010)

  • Cracking Open the MacBook Air


    In October 2010, Apple released the 2nd generation MacBook Air. The redesigned notebook is available in 11-inch and 13-inch models. We cracked open the 1st generation MacBook Air (released in 2008) and couldn’t wait to get our hands on the 2010 model.

    Follow along as we crack open the 13-inch MacBook Air.

    To disassemble the new Air you’ll need a screwdriver with Torx T5 and T9 bits and either a very small flathead screwdriver or a special five-point Torx security bit.

    Don’t forget to check out our teardown of the 11-inch MacBook Air.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • 11-inch and 13-inch MacBook Air boxes


    We purchased both an 11-inch and 13-inch MacBook Air. In this photo, the smaller Air is sitting on the larger.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Under the MacBook Air


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  • 45W MagSafe Power Adapter


    Both the 13-inch and 11-inch MacBook Airs use a 45W MagSafe Power Adapter.

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  • Software Reinstall Drive - Top


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  • 11-inch and 13-inch 2010 MacBook Airs


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  • Tamper-resistant Torx screws


    Although the MacBook Air’s case screws are easily accessible on the bottom panel, Apple used 5-point, tamper-resistant Torx screws.

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  • Small slotted screwdriver


    As with the 11-inch MacBook Air, I was able to remove all 10 case screws with a small slotted screwdriver.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Case screws removed


    While I slightly damaged a few of the screw heads, I should be able to put them back in. If you’re going to work on the new MacBook Air, I recommend getting a screwdriver specifically made for this type of screw.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Lifting off the bottom panel


    With the case screws removed, you can lift the bottom panel away from the case.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the battery screws


    Five Torx T5 screws hold the battery in place.

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  • Battery - Top


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  • Battery - Bottom


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  • Battery Model A1377


    The 2010, 13-inch MacBook Air has a 7.3V, 50Wh Li-ion battery. The 11-inch Air has a a 7.3V, 35Wh Li-ion battery.

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  • Cooling fan still in place


    Next, I’ll remove the cooling fan, which is held in place by four Torx T5 screws–one of which is hidden under the cables that run along the bottom of the fan’s housing.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Left-side circuit board connector


    Before removing the fan, you’ll need to detach both ends of a thin ribbon cable that connects the small, left-side circuit board to the main logic board. This smaller board contains the MagSafe power port, one of the unit’s two USB ports, and the headphone jack.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the fan screws


    With all the screws removed, and the cables disconnected, you can lift the cooling fan away from the main logic board.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Hidden fan screw


    As I noted earlier, one of the fan screws is hidden under a cable that runs along the bottom of the fan’s housing. There’s also a single Torx T5 screw that holds the left-side circuit board to the case.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Left-side circuit board - Top


    The small circuit board, located on the case’s left side, contains the MagSafe power port, USB port, and headphone jack.

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  • Left-side circuit board - Bottom


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  • Cooling fan - Top


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  • Cooling fan - Bottom


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  • Cooling Fan and Left-side Circuit board removed


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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the 128GB flash storage unit


    The 2010 MacBook Air uses flash storage, exclusively. Our test unit came with 128GB. A single Torx T5 screw holds the unit in place. Once the screws is removed, you can disconnect the unit from the main logic board.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • 128GB flash storage unit removed


    A logic board screws is hidden under the SSD unit.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • 128GB flash storage unit - Front


    The MacBook Air’s flash storage unit contains four main components–the circuit board, a Toshiba Solid State Drive controller, a Micron DDR DRAM cache, and the actual Toshiba flash memory chips.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • MSI 0MA17 D9HSJ DRAM cache


    The 2010 MacBook Air’s storage unit has a MSI 0MA17 D9HSJ DRAM cache chip.

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  • Toshiba Solid State Drive Controller


    The 2010 MacBook Air uses a Toshiba T6UG1XBG Solid State Drive controller.

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  • Toshiba TH58NVG8D7FBASB 16GB flash memory chips


    Our 128GB MacBook Air’s flash memory storage unit has four Toshiba TH58NVG8D7FBASB 32GB flash chips.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • 128GB flash storage unit - Back


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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Broadcom Wireless card


    A single Torx T5 screw holds the Broadcom BCM943224PCIEBT2 wireless card in place. You’ll also need to disconnect the antenna cables before removing the card.

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  • Broadcom Wireless card removed


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  • Broadcom Wireless card - Front


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  • Broadcom Wireless card - Back


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  • Disconnecting the display cable


    The display cable requires a fair amount of force to pull free of its connector, but luckily it has a small handle to pull on. With this cable separated from its connector, we can lift the logic board away from the case.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Main logic board screws


    Sixe Torx T5 screws hold the main logic board to the case. Five are clearly visible. You’ll also need to disconnect all the remaining cables before removing the logic board from the case.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Hidden logic board screw


    The sixth logic board screws is hidden under the wireless antenna cables. With the screws removed, you can lift the logic board away from the case.

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  • Main logic board removed


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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Wireless antenna cable


    The wireless antenna cable runs along the case. You’ll need to pull this cable free from the case, before removing the display and lid.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Display and Lid hinges


    The MacBook Air’s display and lid are connected to the case via two hinges. Each hinge uses three Torx T9 screws–one more than the 11-inch Air.

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  • Display and lid


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  • Lid removed


    With the lid and display removed, we can turn our attention to the Multi-Touch Trackpad.

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  • Multi-Touch Trackpad screws


    Although the twp brackets that hold the Multi-Touch TrackPad to the case use a total of 12 screws, you only to remove the six screws attached to the case to take out the Trackpad.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Multi-Touch Trackpad - External


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  • Keyboard and case - Internal


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  • TrackPad controller chips - Left side


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  • TrackPad controller chips - Right side


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  • Trackpad removed


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  • Microphone and speakers


    The MacBook Air’s built-in microphone is located just above the speaker on the left side. As the speaker is glued to the case, I’m going to leave it in place.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Main logic board - Top


    The top of the main logic board contains three main components of the MacBook Air–the Intel Core 2 Duo CPU and NVIDIA GeForce 320M GPU (covered by the heat sink) and Elpida RAM chips.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Heat sink removed


    We’ll need to clean the thermal paste from the CPU and GPU for a clear look at the chips.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • CPU and GPU


    The NVIDIA GPU in located on the left and the Intel CPU is on the right. Let’s take a closer look each chip.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • NVIDIA GeForce 320M GPU


    With the thermal paste cleaned off, we can clearly see the marking on the MacBook Air’s NVIDIA GeForce 320M graphics processor.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Intel Core 2 Duo 1.86 GHz processor


    There are no visible marking on the core of our MacBook Air’s Intel Core 2 Duo 1.86 GHz CPU, but there are markings printed onto the chip’s green circuit board.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Elpida J1108EFBG-AE-F RAM


    Our MacBook Air came with 2GB of 1066MHz DDR3 SDRAM. Like the previous MacBook Air, the RAM is soldered to the main logic board. Upgrading the Air’s RAM after purchase isn’t possible. As the upgrade from 2GB to 4GB is only $100, I recommend going with the 4GB.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Apple markings on the main logic board


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  • Main logic board - Bottom


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  • More Elpida RAM chips


    A second set of Elpida RAM chips are located on the bottom of the main logic board.

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  • More logic board markings


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  • More Apple markings on the main logic board


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Bill Detwiler is the Editor for Technical Content and Ecosystem at Celonis. He is the former Editor in Chief of TechRepublic and previous host of TechRepublic's Dynamic Developer podcast and Cracking Open, CNET and TechRepublic's popular online show. Previously, Bill was an IT manager in the social research and energy industries. He has bachelor's and master's degrees from the University of Louisville, where he has also lectured on computer crime and crime prevention.